The Vaucluse region was a new one for me, but this Grenache-Syrah blend made me want to try more from this area. Vaucluse lies along the western edge of Provence, just inside the Rhone border, in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region. Some of the best makers of Chateauneuf-du-Pape also hold land in the Vaucluse region and are now producing wine here. As a result, there are some very smart values from this region.
The proprietor of Domaine du Père Caboche is Jean-Pierre Boisson. The Boisson family has held this domain since the 1770s, when Jean-Louis Boisson married Elisabeth Chambellan and took over the Chambellan estate, which had been in the Chambellan family since the 1650s. Each year -- to, in Boisson’s words, “pay homage to she who allowed us to be vine-growers today on a property which has been passed down from father to son” -- the estate produces a cuvée Chateauneuf-du-Pape known as Elisabeth Chabellan, made from the oldest vines on the property and specially aged in oak barrels for more than 18 months. The domain is named after the family nickname; for generations the Boissons were both winemakers and blacksmiths, and the word “caboche” is derived from an old Provencal word for horseshoe nails. The domain produces both red and white Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cotes du Rhone, Cotes du Rhone-Villages, and vin de pays de Vaucluse.
Interestingly, J.-P. Boisson is also a politician, and currently serves as mayor of the town of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (the domain also has a tasting vault in the heart of the village). He has largely turned over the duties of winemaking to his daughter and son, Emilie and Nicolas.
Upon opening this rosé, I immediately smelled cat’s pee on the nose, a frequent characteristic of wines from southeastern France. But don’t let that scare you away, as the nose evens out to a light scent of strawberries as the wine opens up. It is pale to medium apricot in color -- some have described it as watermelon colored, but to me it was not that pink -- with light fruit and strawberry on the palate. It is crisp and pleasant but with a bold acidity that would pair well with a lot of foods, even steak (especially if you’re dining outdoors) or spicy foods. I found it quite enjoyable as a simple deck wine, and it made for an agreeable end to a long day.
Alcohol content: 12.5%
The best news is the price: I bought this wine for $8.99 from my friend Kay Pfalz, and that appears to be the going rate on the Internet, too. It’s a steal for a wine this easy-going and pleasurable.
© K. Wills Sterling, 2009